Riga, the capital of Latvia

Latvia's glorious little capital has gone from independence to EU entry in little over a decade, and has come out the other end enjoying something of a tourist boom. Of course, travellers in the know have been sitting on their secret for years: for such a small city Riga has a remarkable amount to offer. Some 50 years of Soviet rule left Riga with some remarkable architectural and historical landmarks completely intact.

Historically, Riga was a major Hanseatic trading post. From the 13th to 15th centuries, the city saw its medieval centre ruined by war and fire. Trade took off again in the 19th century, and Riga’s newfound wealth was expressed in the form of art nouveau architecture.

These days Riga is a port city of fewer than one million inhabitants, more than half of them ethnic Russians. Its old town of Vecriga, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a medley of fine medieval treasures, only very occasionally interrupted by a Soviet eyesore. The surrounding forests provide Riga with another of its treasures, the amber formed from ancient tree sap.

The town is full of antique shops replete with curiosities from Latvia’s turbulent past. Central Ratslaukums (Town Hall Square) reflects this unsteady past perfectly: atop the impressive redbrick and gilded façade of the House of Blacksmiths, an ancient guild, the words ‘Anno 1334-Renov 1999’ hint at the building’s history. The original medieval structure was damaged in the war, destroyed by the Soviets and rebuilt in time for Riga’s 800th anniversary in 2001.

Next door stands a two-storey, windowless black concrete block – once dedicated to the local riflemen who fought with the Bolsheviks. It now houses the fascinating and well-presented Occupation Museum, tracing both the brief Nazi occupation and over 50 years of Soviet rule.

The Dome Cathedral (Doma laukums, 721 3498, closed Mon & Sun), with its soaring spires, is the largest church in the Baltics, dating back seven centuries. St Peter’s (Skarnu 19, 722 9426, closed Mon) is the other must-see church in town, a survivor of raiders and fires. It dates back to 1209, and its wooden tower was once the highest in Europe. It was rebuilt in the 1970s with a lift to an observation platform; the spire offers a panoramic view of all Riga, including the dramatic sweep of the Daugava River to the Baltic Sea.

For a remnant of Soviet life, head for the Centraltirgus (‘Central Market’; Pragas 1, 722 9981, 8am-6pm), a gigantic Soviet-style market located south-west of the Old City and housed in German WWI Zeppelin hangars, where – Latvians say – you can buy anything that is made or grown in their country.

The main thoroughfare of Brivibas iela crosses Riga’s string of parks, with cafés dotted around the surrounding streets. Gloriously preserved art nouveau treasures by Mikhail Eisenstein are found along Elizabetes and Alberta iela.